A book research trip to end all research trips
In 2012, author D.B.
Ahead, John shares fascinating photos from the trip.
Destination North Korea
Our tour group departs Beijing with Air Koryo, North Koreas national carrier.
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The Soviet-made Tupolev airliner, dating from the 1970s, has been repainted with what looks like house paint.
There are splashes of it on the windows.
Our first night is spent on the rock-hard mats of the uber-creepy Ryanggang Hotel.
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A sign in English in the lobby says: The dead drunk guest cannot use the elevator.
A flashing sign in the lobby says Day of the Sun, i.e.
15 April, the Great Leaders birthday.
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(So no cropping off arms, legs, or other parts, which is rude and disrespectful.)
They have just performed a little song and dance for us.
Classroom time is taken up with heroic deeds from the lives and Great Leader and the Dear Leader.
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They make us feel like ants.
To refuse would be awkward, as it risks getting our two guides into trouble.
Pyongyang icons
White-gloved traffic girls control the intersections with robotic efficiency.
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Now and then we see them kill the roads to allow a regime limousine to speed through.
With rising numbers of cars on the streets the girls are gradually being replaced with traffic lights.
We cheer them like lunatics, just to see if we can make one of them laugh.
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Glory to Kim
Massed choirs and dancers perform a lavish spectacular as part of the celebrations.
We clap politely at first, but the applause feels oppressive as the show wears on.
I think of how Soviet citizens would give an ovation at every mention of Stalins name.
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(The gulag awaited those who didnt applaud.)
People here never see Western visitors and stare at us as if weve stepped off the set ofStar Wars.
The food
For a country associated with famine, North Korea has a sophisticated cuisine.
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We are fed huge amounts of food to prove there is no hunger.
The iconic art style of the posters is unchanged since the 1960s.
These celebrate the centenary year 2012.
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Surprised, the kids always wave back.
Everything theyre taught about the West is negative.
Theyre not even told that humankind has walked on the Moon.
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So even simply seeing us may help change their perception, even just a little.
Juche
Me with Kim Il-sung Square in the background, where the regime stages its massive parades.
Beautiful Korea
A white-water river roars through the ravines of Mount Kumgang.
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Citizens need a travel permit (and a good reason) even to leave their local county.
Final thoughts
Scariest moment: A North Korean soldier pointing at me and shouting GEEPISH!
He thought my camera was a GPS gear.
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(We were banned from taking any communications devices into the country).
Most frustrating moment: Contracting propaganda sickness.
(Being told daily that Kim Il-sung single-handedly defeated Japan, the USA, South Korea…)
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Courtesy Crown Publishing Group
